Thirty thousand islands, one old town, and the road north

Three Swedens: the archipelago, Gamla Stan, and the dark sky above Kiruna.

Which archipelago boat actually stops at an island. What a morning behind a dog team costs. Whether the Vasa or Skansen wins your one museum afternoon. Reviews of every tour you can book in Sweden.

200tours to book
from $11cheapest way out
61of them under $50
Out to the skerriesfrom $39Gamla Stan on footfrom $11Aurora nights up northfrom $59
Out on the water

In Stockholm the good day starts at a quay.

The archipelago begins a twenty-minute walk from the old town and runs for thirty thousand islands. Four ways out onto it, what it costs to board each one, and which city it leaves from.

Pick a base

Stockholm first, then whichever train or sleeper you fancy.

A capital built on fourteen islands, a west-coast port of canals and café streets, a bridge town that shares a metro with Denmark, and two Arctic bases under the aurora oval.

On foot

Gamla Stan is four hundred metres across and takes three hours.

The old town is one island of ochre alleys, rune stones set into house walls and a lane you can touch both sides of. Guides here do the executions, the plague and the royal scandals better than any plaque manages.

Every guided walk
Stockholm

Stockholm: the water in the morning, Djurgården after lunch.

Everything in Stockholm →
★★★★★★★★★★4.4· 3,110 travellers on the most booked day out

The city runs on ferries, so start on one. Then the museum island, then the old town when the day trippers have gone back to their ships. These three carry more travellers than anything else in Sweden.

The water question

Guided cruise, or the commuter ferry

2–3h· from $39· open deck

A guided boat names the islands and serves you a coffee. The public ferry out to Vaxholm costs a fraction and shows you the same water, with nobody explaining it. Pick by whether you want the story.

The one museum

The Vasa, or the whole country on a hill

1–3h· from $18· indoors

The Vasa is a single warship raised whole from the harbour. Skansen is an open-air museum of the entire country with a zoo attached. On one afternoon the ship wins; with children, the hill does.

The evening

Södermalm, bakery by bakery

3–4h· from $16· come hungry

Cardamom buns, a herring plate you would not order alone, and a stop where the aquavit is poured without comment. The walks work south of the old town, where Stockholmers actually eat.

Compare every Stockholm day out →

What fills up first

Sweden’s most booked days out.

Every Swedish tour review →

What Swedish travellers actually spend their days on, and what earns each one its place at the top.

1
★★★★★★★★★★ 4.4 · 3,110 reviews

Archipelago Boat Tour

Spend two hours cruising from Skeppsbron through Stockholm’s island world. An English-speaking guide such as Joel, Natalie, or Jonatan shares stories about Swedish history, royal life, local customs, and the boat. You pass Djurgården Canal, Fjäderholmarna, Stora Höggarn, and Tegelön, with indoor seating, an upper deck, blankets, and a small onboard bar.

From · $39

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Swedish Lapland

Above the Arctic Circle the night is the attraction.

Kiruna and Abisko sit under the aurora oval, and the dark season runs from September to late March. Around it: dog teams on frozen lakes, snowmobiles out to a mountain station, and a hotel that is cut out of the Torne river and rebuilt from scratch every November.

Every day out in Lapland →
West and south

Gothenburg, Malmö and Uppsala are three easy trains out of Stockholm.

Gothenburg runs flat little Paddan boats under bridges low enough to duck for, and keeps its café life in the wooden houses of Haga. Malmö shares a metro card with Copenhagen. Uppsala has the cathedral, the castle and the burial mounds of the first Swedish kings, an hour up the line.

Every day out in Gothenburg →
What it costs

What a day out in Sweden actually costs.

Every tour on the site, grouped by price. Sweden has a reputation for expensive; the old-town walks and the museum tickets have not heard it.

Under $50

Old-town walks, museum and gallery entry, the hop-on boats and the self-guided routes.

$50–150

Guided archipelago cruises, food walks, bike days and the Viking countryside runs to Sigtuna.

$150 and up

Aurora nights with a photographer, dog teams, snowmobile expeditions and the trip out to the ice.

Only here

Three things Sweden does that nowhere else does.

Every country has an old town and a gallery. A warship raised whole out of a harbour, an afternoon written into the working day, and a hotel that melts each spring do not travel.

Raised from the mud

The Vasa

A warship that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628, a thousand metres out, in front of the entire city. She sat in the harbour mud for 333 years, which is exactly what saved her: the Baltic is too cold and too brackish for the shipworm that eats wooden wrecks everywhere else. Raised in 1961, she stands whole under one roof on Djurgården, ninety-eight per cent original timber.

  1. 1Skansen Open-Air Museum Admission Ticket★★★★★★★★★★ 4.5 · 3,427 reviews
  2. 2Stockholm Pass: Save up to 50% – Includes Vasa Museum Ticket★★★★★★★★★★ 4.1 · 2,392 reviews
  3. 3Nobel Prize Museum and Exhibition Entry Ticket★★★★★★★★★★ 4.3 · 994 reviews
See the full list →
The afternoon institution

Fika

Not a coffee break. Fika is a stop with a name, a pastry and other people in it, and it is written into the working day rather than squeezed around it. Ask a Swede and you will be told the cardamom bun is the point, not the coffee. The food walks build a whole afternoon out of it, from the bakeries of Södermalm to a century-old konditori in the old town.

  1. 1The Nordic Food Walk Stockholm★★★★★★★★★★ 4.5 · 642 reviews
  2. 2Skip the Line: Disgusting Food Museum Entrance Ticket★★★★★★★★★★ 5.0 · 359 reviews
  3. 3Secrets of Gamla Stan Guided Tour w/ Fika Option★★★★★★★★★★ 4.7 · 282 reviews
See the full list →
Rebuilt every winter

The Icehotel

At Jukkasjärvi they cut the Torne river into blocks in spring, store them through the summer, and rebuild the hotel from nothing every November: new artists, new rooms, the same river. In April it melts back into the water it came out of. Day tours run from Kiruna and Abisko for everyone not sleeping at minus five.

  1. 1Guided Tour to Icehotel and Jukkasjärvi★★★★★★★★★★ 5.0 · 28 reviews
  2. 2Explore the Icehotel★★★★★★★★★★ 4.2 · 16 reviews
  3. 3Explore the Icehotel, Day Trip from Abisko★★★★★★★★★★ 5.0 · 6 reviews
See the full list →
Book ahead

Four Swedish bookings that will not wait.

Most of this country can be arranged over breakfast. These four run on daylight, ice and a river that keeps its own calendar.

  1. 01Guided Tour to Icehotel and JukkasjärviThe building is cut from the Torne in spring and gone by late April. There is no summer version of it to fall back on.
  2. 02Kiruna Northern Lights Tour with PhotographerAurora trips only run in the dark season, and the photographer-led ones cap their groups hard. Clear nights in February go first.
  3. 03Sit Down Husky Ride Dog Sled Tour in KirunaA kennel can only send out as many teams as it has dogs. In February every sled around Kiruna is spoken for weeks ahead.
  4. 04Guided Kayak City Tour & Optional Midsummer MealMidsummer is one weekend in late June and the country closes for it. Anything still running that weekend is booked months out.
Light and dark

Stockholm gets six hours of daylight in December. Build the day around it.

Midwinter sunrise is after half eight and the light has gone by three, which is either a problem or the entire reason to come. Book the outdoor hours first and fill the dark end with things that have a roof — or go north, where the dark is the attraction rather than the obstacle.

The Swedish table

What Sweden eats: fika at three, herring and aquavit at seven.

Cardamom buns and filter coffee in the afternoon, then the smörgåsbord order everybody gets wrong — herring first, then the cold plates, then the warm, and never all at once. The Stockholm food walks run the whole sequence.

Find your Sweden
A first week, in order

Gamla Stan, Djurgården, the islands, then the sleeper north.

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